Rockin' Round the Clock

The morning sky above Red Bank is the color of a robin's egg-a blue that's only possible this close to the beach. Though situated on the shores of the fresh water Navesink River, Red Bank is a short bicycle ride from the expanse of soft sand at Sea Bright. Gulls wheel and cry, spinning like white boomerangs along Broad Street, hoping the young couples having breakfast al fresco will be careless with their bread. They compete for crumbs with the songbirds that hang out in the trees lining the main thoroughfare. Red Bank is where the sea meets the countryside in Monmouth County.

Throughout Monmouth County's history, the twin beacons of the Navesink blinked security to vessels on the Atlantic's rolling surf, bringing pirates, colonists, enemy troops, vacationers, young families and rock stars (more or less in that order) to the area. Bootleggers came by ship, too, in the Thirsty Twenties. For an area with such a colorful past, Red Bank has a remarkable innocence. You may hear the long, low pull of a tugboat horn as it guides a yacht or sailboat to the estuary, but you'll rarely heal a car horn, despite the challenge of parking. Perhaps because of it history of hosting visitors from different walks c life (from Philadelphia's aristocracy to eye-patches one-armed, sea-smart runners of booze), Red Ban welcomes all comers. The indigenous culture polite and friendly.

It's not hard to be in a good mood here. The sweet, salty breeze wafting off the river engulfs you whenever you're not inside a boutique or place of sustenance. Couples of all ages hold hands; babies smile as they are pushed in their carriages; and people wave to friends and acquaintances. You nearly expect some to yell "cut!" and, the scene over, see the "actors" return to a less-cheerful state. But, happiness is not an act here.

There is cultural diversity in this town. The owners of Primas came from Brazil; 2 Senza's chef immigrated from Italy; Afridesia's parakeet headdresses were imported from Rangoon; and the artifacts antiques in the antique district arrived from countries too numerous to mention. Even the local Mexican-Carlos O'Conner's-is a successful blending of disparate cultures.

The brilliance of the moon shining above Red Bank competes with the glow of the many colored lights brightening the town, from those on the marquis of the legendary Count Basie Theater to those hung above the garden terraces of outdoor restaurants. On moonless lights, these lunar simulations still draw people out. People meet for drinks, eat out and stay out, either shopping or listening to music. This is a latenight town. Even as the witching hour draws near, chic couples peruse the wall of stilettos at Coco Pari (spending to the beat of salsa music); sip Martinis and listen to the sharp notes of jazz upstairs at the Downtown Cafe; devour tapas at Echo; or light another Cohiba retrieved from a personal humidor at Ashes' private cigar club.

The mainstays of Red Bank are art, food, music, film and antiques. Refurbished warehouses on the west side of town contain acres of wonderful antiques and funky new boutiques. From regular "Artwalks," to movies, jazz or the Family Concert series in the Riverside Gardens Park, from live music at many of the restaurants and bars to theater at Count Basie, you'd have to stay up 24-hours a day to take it all in.

More than once, night-crawlers have been surprised by the time on the face of Broad Street's famous clock; they sneak hurriedly past it, determined to call it a night before the sun wakes the robins.

Re-printed with permission from New Jersey Life Volume 4 No. 5, June 2002.